This is a project of patterns. At first a paper pattern is cut on the form. The aluminum skins and the pieces of fiberglass are both cut from the same pattern. These two pieces will become the upper edge of the body halves.
Both sides were laminated while installed on the bike. Blue masking tape on the frame protects the surfaces from the epoxy resin. The fiberglass in this picture is "wet".
The same panel after full cure. Note the color change.
This is the left upper panel that will mate to the stock GSXR fairing. The edges are being fitted to join the two panels. Note the roll of fiberglass. It is double-layered coarse matt. Each piece cut from this type of matt yields 1/16" of thickness when piece is cured.
This is the only portion of the skins that were assembled off the forms. The fit between these two pieces had to almost exact and form a perfect ninety degree angle after joining. Luthier quality? Maybe not but real close.
After the upper pieces are joined everything goes back on the bike for a test fit. There is almost no possible way to count the number of times pieces and panels were test fitted. It is a "must do" to find and sort out potential problems as it's being built.
The first overhead shot giving you a rider's eye view of the cockpit.
The sum total of the left side patterns.
The aluminum panels for both sides. Each panel would receive shaping with hammer and anvil and test fitted to the form many times. When the desired shape was achieved the panel was stretched onto the form using the tabs to hold it in place. The skins are a sacrificial piece. After the panel is laminated the cured piece is removed from the wire form and the aluminum skin is peeled from the backside of the part. Although each skin involves an hour or more to cut and form it is only good for one use.
An intermediate piece on the left form just before fiberglass.
The rear section of the right hand panel just before fiberglass.
Laminating done on the same panel and about fifty percent cured.
After some minimal shaping the lower front piece goes on.
And finally the last of the side panels are formed. After some aggressive shaping it will be ready to go on the forms to create the lower ski and front scoop.
There are two blisters in the skins that provide clearance for the pop-off valve and the intercooler. Forming this contour in the aluminum skin would not be good time management since the skins are sacrificial. The 1/8" rod forms the outer perimeter of the blister. I cut a slot in the aluminum skin to allow the shape to protrude through the panel.
Using tiger hair (fiberglass reinforced bondo) I filled in the space with the correct shape.
Then grind and block to finish the shape.
Ready for fiberglass.
The completed left panel after shaping and before the ski and scoop are created. Test fitting on the form.
Test fitting on the bike. Always test fitting.
The elbow of the intercooler fits right in the pocket.
The forms are screwed together on the table heads and the ski area has been covered with a shaped aluminum panel.
Suzuki has for year been incorporating a wedge where the bodywork meets the rear tire. This shape was developed through years of racing and would add another edge to the new body. I marked the area to be removed...
... then removed it with a cut-off tool.
The halves were centered on the form and riveted in place.
The lower section of the front scoop was added and the form prepared for fiberglass.
Next the skins are attached to the form. Pieces of right angle steel were added to crimp all the shapes into perfect alignment. The angle was drilled and bolted directly to the form. "C" clamps at the ends were added to apply a little bit of English to the cured side panels. Note the edge of the side panels on the inside edge of the angle. They were 1/2" wide and the ski panels overlap these edges. Everytime a panel adjacent to a cured piece is being laminated I overlap the cured panel by 1/2". Masking tape was used on the angle to prevent them from being glued to the skins.
The ski contour and lower portion of the scoop are laminated in one continuous piece to create a uniform surface. This is probably one of the most crucial surfaces on the body. It would be cut later and an offset molded onto the right skin. Dzus fasteners would hold it together when finished. It is about fifty percent cured in this photo.
The clamps come off and the upper portion of the scoop area is prepared for fiberglass.
The last two sections of the scoop were laminated in this vertical position. When the fiberglass reached full cure I cut the two halves right down the center. It's now two halves again.
The first test-fit of the left panel. Both sides have been fish shaped on the form and have been turned over and several layers of glass has been laminated to the inside of the skins. They are bigger, almost full size sheets to add additional strength and rigidity to the body. Note the hose and clamp on the intercooler, there's just enough room.
There's a 1/4" of clearance between the scoop and the intercooler. There would be an 1/8" offset added to the back of the right panel giving just an 1/8" of finished clearance to the intercooler. Spaces are minimal.
The body halves are jigged and clamped in place to mold the offset seam that runs the entire length. Three inch wide strips are laminated to the right half using the left half as a form. Masking tape is used to protect the glass from adhering to the left panel edge. When the offset is fully cured the two halves come apart very easily and the offset mates to the adjacent panel perfectly. Only minor clearance sanding was required to finish the seam.
The offset seam for the tail section was molded the same way. Here you see the Dzus fasteners drilled and in place on an offset seam. If you race you must Dzus!
The exhaust is marked for it's final cut.
Only 1-1/4" of clearance separates the tire from the body but with full lock-to-lock steering. The scoop area is cupped here and also gives full fork travel without touching. It's at this point that I finally decide the Don McCaw rear fender half would not clear.
The offset for the front fairing was created the same as the other body seams. Jig and clamp the two panels in perfect alignment. Protect one panel with masking tape. Laminate three inch strips of fiberglass and allow to fully cure. Remove clamps and the two halves will snap apart. The left side looking from the inside.
The left side again about fifty percent cured. The glass is transparent until full cure is achieved. It's just starting to kick.
This is the offset seam on the right panel. The dimples in the offset are where the mounting holes will be drilled and were created by the boss on the back of the factory fairing.
The same panel bolted to the fairing with factory cage-nuts and Allen head screws. A skim of polyester glazing putty was applied to get a seamless plane over the factory and new fiberglass panel.
The left panel. The entire body would be test fitted another time before it was assembled off the bike and one coat of glazing applied to the entire outer surface.